How To Projects — Sewing
Supplies:Toweling for runner – desired length plus 2 ½”
Toweling for napkins – width of towel plus 2 ½” for each square napkin
Matching thread and needle or sewing machine
- Cut toweling for runner, press end up 1 ¼ “, open and turn raw edge in and press again, pin and stitch so that hem distance is the same as hem already on toweling long edge.
- Repeat at opposite end of runner
- For napkins use the exact same technique on each raw edge
Supplies:½ yard (or fat quarter) of fleece/minky for outer container
½ yard (or fat quarter) of cotton or flannel for lining
1/8 yard for binding (2 3/4 x 44”)
18 x 18” square of extra firm fusible interfacing
- Lay 18” square of extra firm fusible interfacing on wrong side of 18” square of fabric for outer container
- Follow manufacturer’s directions and iron in place
- Fold in half with right sides of fabric touching and pin along the sides, stitch 1/4" seam along each side
- Cut 4” squares from the bottom corners measure 4 ” from side seam and 4” up from the fold, draw lines and cut
- Open container (right side should be on the inside, fold becomes the bottom) and container takes a squared shape
- The two sides (with the stitched seams) should be touching the bottom of the container – these 2 touching edges are where you just removed the 4” corner
- Fold one of these sides to the inside and pin the 2 cut edges together, repeat with the other side, stitch ¼” seam along each edge to form container base and turn right side out
- Repeat steps 3-7 to make lining except don't turn right side out in step 7
- Place lining inside of container so that wrong sides are touching, match seams along the top edge and pin in place
- Prepare binding by folding in half lengthwise and pressing
- Pin binding to outside of container with raw edges matching being sure to leave about 6” of “tail” before you start pining, stop pinning about 6” before you reach the starting point
- Stitch using a 1/4” seam around the top edge, stop about 6” from the starting point
- Trim ends so they overlap 2 ¾”, miter the ends (sew together at right angles), then continue stitching binding in place
- Fold binding over the raw edge and whip stitch in place
- Fill with Soft Baby Blocks
3-4 coordinating prints of fabric
Cut 2 pieces 3x3"
Cut 2 pieces 3x8"
Fold each 3x3" square in half on the diagonal and press
Place one of the 3x8" rectangles, right side up, on the work surface.
Place one triangle on each of the two corners at one end of the rectangle, raw edges matching
Place second rectangle, wrong side up, on top of first rectangles with raw edges matching and pin in place
Stitch 1/4" all the way around the rectangle leaving a 3" opening along one side so it can be turned right side out
Trim corners and turn
Press raw edges to the inside and finish pressing
Use 2 pins to mark 1 1/2" from the end with the triangles on both sides; this will be your starting and ending spot for top stitching
Top stitch around the rectangle, 1/8", starting at one pin mark (you'll need to pull back a triangle to stitch underneath) and go all the way around to the next pin mark (pulling triangle back). Be sure to stitch back and forth at the beginning and end to secure thread
Trim and you are ready to use to store business card, gift cards or to give as a gift.
Fabric (6 or 7 different prints/solids)
Quilt batting (8x10”)
Printable fabric sheets for inkjet printers
Ruler, pins, scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Print words onto printable fabric sheets (follow manufacturer’s instructions).
- Cut out fabric according to measurements on diagram. Cutting binding strip 2 ¼ x about 36”
- Lay down your backing fabric, wrong side facing up and place batting on top..
- Put custom printed fabric (or just regular fabric print/solid) about 1 3/4” from the left side and about 1 3/4” from the top edge; be sure it is aligned straight and pin in a few places. If this piece is crooked the whole thing will be crooked or not fit on the backing. *Optional Pocket: if making a pocket now is the time to add it. Cut fabric 3 3/4x3 1/2" fold in half, press and line up raw edges along the bottom and sides of (A).
- Take (B) and lay it right side together along the top edge of (A) and stitch a ¼” seam.
- Use a pressing cloth if you are working with polyester batting, it can just be a plain piece of cotton fabric; press (B) open.
- Take (C) and place right side down along the (AB) edge, pin and stitch a ¼” seam. Press (C) open. YAY you are getting the hang of it!!
- Place (D) right side down along the (AC) edge, pin and stitch ¼” seam. Press as you did above.
- Line up (E) along (BAD) being sure that (BAD) is totally smoothed out with no wrinkles including the backing, and repeat above process.
- (F) will line up along (CD) and G will line up with (F) stitch each and press as above.
- With ruler and scissors or rotary cutter and mat trim edges so they are straight and corners are right angles; will be about 6 x 8”.
- Take binding fabric, fold wrong sides together and press so that you have a 1 1/8” strip.
- Pin binding along bottom (raw edges matching) start about 1 1/2” from the left corner with about a 4-5” tail (don’t pin down the tail just leave it hanging.
- Stitch up to ¼” from the corner, miter the corner and then continue stitching a ¼” seam along the side and continue all the way around till you have mitered all corners.
- Just after having turned that last corner and stitched about 1 ½” from the corner, cut threads and pull away from the machine.
- Overlap the binding so that it overlaps 2 1/4” and trim excess from each end as necessary.
- Open binding, right sides crossed stitch side to side so that when trimmed and folded your seam will be at an angle.
- Pin remaining binding to the edge and finish stitching on machine.
- Fold binding over the edge and whipstitch on the back with matching thread.
2 yards of fabric (1 yard of each color)
Pins, scissors and ruler
- Lay pattern on the fabric following measurements in the diagram; draw lines to complete pattern on fabric
- Cut out apron.
- Along bottom edge of the fabric that is left cut 2 strips 3x30” each, along the side cut 2 pockets 13x7” each
- Fold each pocket in half, right sides together, (so it is close to a square shape)
- Stitch 1/2” seam on both sides and just around each corner, leave about a 3” opening so that you can easily turn it right side out
- Trim seams and corners, turn right side out and press
- Along the open edge of the pocket turn raw edges inside and press
- Repeat for all pockets
- Pin pockets to apron. Each pocket should be about 3 ½” from the side and 5 ¾” from the bottom
- Top stitch all pockets close to the edge being sure to back stitch at the top for extra strength
- To make the ties fold one short end up ½” and press, now fold in half lengthwise and press, open and fold long edges to the inside and press both folds, fold again so that the 2 folded edges meet and press again.
- Top stitch close to the edge with the 2 folds and around the end, repeat for all 4 ties (2 from each print)
- Pin ties with raw edges of apron and tie lined up at the waist and at the top; follow marks on the pattern for placement being sure that ties are not sewn into the seam.
- Pin both aprons right sides together matching corners and edges; be sure all ends of ties are in the middle and not going to get caught in a seam
- Stitch ½” seam all the way around the apron leaving a 10” opening along the bottom edge to turn the apron right side out
- Trim seams and corners; do not trim along the bottom opening; and turn apron right side out
- Turn raw edges at bottom of apron to the inside and press around entire apron being sure to press along all seams
- Top stitch ¼” around the entire edge of the apron, this will close up opening at the bottom
- Give one final pressing and you are good to go!! Enjoy